It wasn't always like this for me. Before I experienced Primanti Brothers, my ideal sandwich architecture was modeled on a NY Deli pastrami sandwich. The pastrami sandwich at Carnegie Deli is essentially a tower of pastrami (five inches high or more) enclosed by two pieces of rye bread, one of which is spread with mustard. The simplicity of the construction is very different from a Primanti Brothers sandwich which has a variety of layers, one of which is french fries. For me, that layer of slightly greasy fries takes this sandwich to a higher level of delicious.
I've come to Pittsburgh with my family to attend my mother-in-law's wedding. Yes, there will be an elegant dinner, cocktail party, etc. but the four of us have a understanding that we must get to Primanti's ASAP. Yes, I am the type of mother who makes organic peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for my kids. Their lunches are whole grain, organic, low fat and hi fiber. Primanti Brothers allows us forget all that.
Primanti Bros. is open 24 hours but this wasn't always the case. It began as a sandwich cart in the 1930's and sold sandwiches to truckers on the go. It opened at 3AM. What began as a Depression era sandwich shop has evolved into a restaurant that feels like a historic diner, except that everyone comes for the same thing: the sandwiches.
My family and I arrive at 1PM for lunch and the place is jammed. Seventies era wall murals of Pittsburgh luminaries like Mr. Rogers and Franco Harris provide the decoration. The tables and chairs are no frills and don't encourage a person to sit for too long. This is not a lingering place. People fill up and go.
The four of us sit on stools at the counter in order to watch the action at the grill. The cook could be my grandmother and she is smiling and chatting with customers. You get served very quickly and it is fun to watch the orders move from grill to customer. Even though we don't have long to wait, the anticipation is part of the fun.
1.The fresh Italian bread is just fluffy enough to absorb the juices of the sandwich but does not get soggy.
2. The pastrami is lean and peppery and doesn't overwhelm the sandwich.
3. The melted cheese balances the brine of the slaw and the sharpness of the meat.
4. The fries are hand cut and a little bit greasy, nice and salty.
5. The coleslaw is sour and a little bit sweet. It's crisp texture plays off of the chewy bread.
These five elements all come together and create a sandwich that is balanced, succulent and unique; so tall it begs to be squished in order to take a bite. We also order a fried egg and cheese and it is almost as special as the pastrami and cheese, but not quite.
The four of us quietly savor our lunch, knowing that these sandwiches are unavailable in Bozeman, Montana, where we live. I feel grateful that I do not live here in Pittsburgh because I would have health problems from eating food like this all the time. At any hour of the day or night, this sandwich is so delicious that it leaves you with a craving long after you leave Pittsburgh.
Primanti Brothers
46 18th Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15222
