Gristedes or Waldbaum's?

In my family, it was understood that the end result of the meal depended on where you bought the ingredients and whether you got a good deal.  At meal times, the conversation usually began with the origin of the protein that was being served. It went something like this:

Tasting the brisket she has prepared for dinner, my mother turns to my grandmother and says, "Mom, this brisket tastes like old shoe leather. It is inedible. Where the hell did you buy it?"
Nan appears unperturbed.  She calmly answers. "You asked me to get it at the new Gristedes in Little Neck. It was on sale."  From time to time, perhaps out of boredom, Nan occasionally ventured to grocery stores out of her way.

My mother does not give up.  She needs to assign blame to someone. "It is not fresh! They were trying to get rid of it so they marked it down." She grimaces, pushes her plate away.

"Joyce, how long did you cook it?"asks Nan, raising an eyebrow.  My brothers and I exchange knowing looks. It this is a dual between Nan and Mom, it is now over.

"That doesn't matter! I could have cooked it for two days and it would still be tough!"answers my Mom, defensively.

Nan backs down. "I always say, stick with Waldbaum's." That settled it. For the next few weeks, no one was going to get adventurous.

Consequently, I grew up in fear of brisket and mistrustful of Gristedes. It wasn't until I left home that it occurred to me that maybe the cook's technique or lack of may have had something to do with the food that was served at our table.

Fast forward twenty years and I am living in Bozeman, Montana. My children and I are sitting in our home school classroom on a Friday morning in September. Bow hunting season. My husband comes in wearing camouflage with blood splattered on his legs and arms and a look of contentment on his face.

If we were still residing in Los Angeles, I would be petrified. I would be dialing 911. However, we have been living in Bozeman for two years and there have been some changes in our lives.

We realize that he has shot an elk and dash outside to admire the carcass in the back of his pick up truck.  In the field, the elk weighed five hundred pounds on the hoof.  Peter quartered it and carried out each piece.  He has brought home the head as well, thinking there would be meat in the neck.  In Montana, you have to carry every edible part of the elk out of the field.  The elk's head is tremendous. Without thinking, I touch the soft fur between the elk's eyes and say:" Thanks for the meat."

I send a text message to a few friends, announcing our good fortune. Some of our neighbors come over. There is a lot of blood but no one is bothered.

My phone rings and it is a close friend. I know what question is coming. After congratulating me she asks "Is it a cow or a bull?

It is generally understood that the most tender and flavorful elk meat comes from a female, a cow. Before my friend can assess the complete value of our kill, we have to establish the question of the elk's gender.

"A cow."

"Wow, congratulations!"
Not only do we have an elk to eat all winter but it is a cow.  I've come a long way from my former Los Angeles food cravings: sushi, fish tacos, anything in mole sauce.  There is nothing I would rather eat than elk meat.  O.K., maybe whitetail deer.


One of my favorite ways to eat elk is in a ragu sauce over pasta.  This recipe works for venison too.

Elk Ragu

!/4 C extra virgin olive oil
1 pound ground elk
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
6 garlic cloves, crushed
1 8 oz. can chopped tomatoes
4 T tomato paste
2 C red wine
2 cups chicken stock
1 T dried basil
salt and pepper to taste

1. In a heavy bottomed casserole pan, heat the olive oil over high heat and cook the ground elk meat.  When the meat is fully cooked, put it on a plate and set it aside.

2.In the same pan, add more olive oil and cook the onion, carrot, celery, basil and garlic over low heat, stirring frequently.  Add the tomato paste and the chopped tomatoes. After five minutes, add the wine and chicken stock.  Bring to a boil and return the meat to the pan.

3.Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered for one hour.  The sauce should reduce quite a bit.  Season with salt and pepper.

Serve over your favorite pasta!